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I finally got the feedscrew repair finished on my lathe.
I had cut the replacement 1" 5tpi l/h acme screw months ago, got the outer dimensions of the nut finished last week after I finally got the mill up and running, yesterday i took the feedscrew out and took it to a friend's place, cut it in two using his chop saw (the point of no return!) and used his lathe to mate the two pieces.
Outer diameter at the plain section in front of the drive gear is 0.900, I bored it to 0.600 (actually ended up 0.6004) and 1.100 deep, then turned the male section on the new screw to 0.598" and 1.00 long.
Brought it home and mated the two pieces with some Loctite 620.
I left it overnight, then cross-drilled and reamed to take a small taper pin. Inserted the pin also with 620.
Left it for an hour or so then cut the ends off the pin and filed them flush. I have fitted the new screw and nut, and will have to get accustomed to working with .002 backlash on the crossfeed where I used to have about .042.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.
Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.
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The following 1 user Likes f350ca's post:
EdK (09-01-2015)
(08-31-2015, 08:08 PM)EdK Wrote: (08-31-2015, 08:05 PM)f350ca Wrote: Started making more cedar shingles to finish the shop.
...
Figure I need about 6 million shingles to cover the wall.
Isn't that the mechanism Sadie took off on? She decide to come back then, huh? Probably got hungry. 
Ed
She's taken to using the new ATV, it rides better.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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The following 4 users Like johnnyc14's post:
EdK (09-01-2015), zmotorsports (09-01-2015), aRM (09-01-2015), Pete O (09-02-2015)
johnncyc14, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Nov 2013.
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That looks good Johnny. What did you use for the engine turned look?
Mike.
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The following 1 user Likes johnnyc14's post:
zmotorsports (09-02-2015)
(09-01-2015, 01:24 PM)zmotorsports Wrote: That looks good Johnny. What did you use for the engine turned look?
Mike.
Thanks Mike, I just used a 2 inch 3M Scotchbrite Roloc disc in the drill chuck. I ran the machine at 200 rpm and just brought the disc into light contact for 3 or 4 seconds in each position. I spaced the contacts on 1 inch centres starting in the centre of the panel. It was easier than trying to polish the stainless to an even finish.
johnncyc14, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Nov 2013.
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(09-01-2015, 09:23 PM)johnnyc14 Wrote: (09-01-2015, 01:24 PM)zmotorsports Wrote: That looks good Johnny. What did you use for the engine turned look?
Mike.
Thanks Mike, I just used a 2 inch 3M Scotchbrite Roloc disc in the drill chuck. I ran the machine at 200 rpm and just brought the disc into light contact for 3 or 4 seconds in each position. I spaced the contacts on 1 inch centres starting in the centre of the panel. It was easier than trying to polish the stainless to an even finish.
Thanks. Nice job, it turned out great.
Mike.
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The shop compressor started flickering the lights when it fired up. Even dropped the voltage low enough to shut down the electronics on the cnc plasma table. I was and maybe still am suspecting the connections on the 100 amp overhead service between the house and the shop. An electrician I know was in the other day, he suggested checking the capacitors on the motor. Took them into the rewind place today. The two 1060 mF start capacitors were open and one of the 15 mF run capacitors were open. He didn't have the big ones in stock so had to order them, no problem. My question is how could it start at all if the two start capacitors which are in serious were open? His answer was it had a strong run winding ? Huh.
Thought you needed the start winding to get a single phase motor to start and run in the desired direction.
Guess I know even less than the little bit I thought I knew about electric motors.
To emphasize how little I know, I was quizzing him about the motor on the shaper Im getting. Its supposed to be single phase but I couldn't see any place for the start capacitor. He suggested it might be a Repulsive Start/ Induction Run motor. Again HUH. Apparently they have brushes that supply the starting power (Very high starting torque) then switch to induction mode (not using the brushes) to run. He said if thats what it is do what ever you can to keep it running, apparently they were a great motor aside from having to change brushes).
Any motor gurus
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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The motor on my Lewis shaper doesn't have any capacitors. It's a 1/3 HP. The start windings are connected through a centrifugally operated switch that opens when the speed gets high enough.
Mike
If you can't get one, make one.
Hawkeye, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jan 2013.
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EdK (09-05-2015)
Cannot and will not claim authorship/designing for this nice prick punch as it came from: http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/showt...09/03/2015
![[Image: PRICK.jpg]](http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/mklotz/tools/PRICK.jpg)
The steel slug rides freely on the rod and is dropped, slidehammer-fashion, onto the steel plate pinned to the shaft to drive the prick punch into the work. The punch itself is made from an index hole punch rescued from an old mechanical teletype. The brass screw at the end hides a pocket to store punches and also serves to keep the hammer on the rod.
Now I have another addition for my 2 do list.
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Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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![[Image: P9011134_zpsgdkstm1w.jpg]](http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u171/64beaumont/Ferro%20mill/P9011134_zpsgdkstm1w.jpg)
![[Image: P9011132_zpsazjxtyfz.jpg]](http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u171/64beaumont/Ferro%20mill/P9011132_zpsazjxtyfz.jpg)
![[Image: P9011133_zpssypotv0c.jpg]](http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u171/64beaumont/Ferro%20mill/P9011133_zpssypotv0c.jpg)
It will be nice to have made something shiny...