Setting Up My PM935 Mill
(09-12-2016, 12:11 PM)Dr Stan Wrote: Now he will have to convert it to CNC.   Rotfl

No chance in hell. Big Grin

Ed
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(09-12-2016, 05:35 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Hoo-bloody-ray!

I could be wrong but it doesn't look as if you are making that cutter work hard enough.  What speed, feed and doc were you using?  Ken will ask for insert grade and chip breaker, so you'd best include that as well. Oh, best tell us what the material was as well.

Yes, I know I was not turning it fast enough but since it was my first experience with using the mill I decided to error on the side of too slow rather than too fast. The steel is 1018 CRS. I've got a fair amount to take off of one dimension so I'll push it harder next time. I need to set up the shields to deflect all of those chips that come flying off. First I've got to tram it again.

Ed
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(09-12-2016, 03:35 PM)EdK Wrote:
(09-12-2016, 12:11 PM)Dr Stan Wrote: Now he will have to convert it to CNC.   Rotfl

No chance in hell.  Big Grin

Ed

And the weather report in Hell says it just froze over.   Smiley-dancenana
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(09-12-2016, 03:45 PM)EdK Wrote: First I've got to tram it again.

Ed

Ed,
What kind of reading did you get across the X axis and how large of a sweep were you using? I'm assuming you double checked the readings after snugging down all the nuts on the head, right? I can't imagine how that tram could be out otherwise with the level of care you put into all your work. I'm baffled as to how it isn't spot on after a single iteration in your hands. 17428

Have you tried a piece of aluminum to see if it comes out the same? Just curious. I'm just wondering if maybe you didn't have enough torque on the nuts and the head moved after the first contact with the cold rolled. Just a wild guess... Chin
Willie
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take another cut at feeds and speed suitable for the cutter and see what happens
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
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(09-13-2016, 10:43 AM)Highpower Wrote: What kind of reading did you get across the X axis and how large of a sweep were you using?

About an 8" swing with dead nuts on reading at both swings. I did indeed tighten the nuts up good and then rechecked to make sure the reading hadn't changed. I think part of it was that I went back and checked all of the gibs and had to tighten two of them up. I should have rechecked tram after doing that but didn't. I trammed it last night and got it dead nuts at all four sweeps.

Ed
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(09-13-2016, 11:16 AM)dallen Wrote: take another cut at feeds and speed suitable for the cutter and see what happens

I plan on doing that.

Ed
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Ed,

That's a nice looking cutter, is that a Walter??

I have a Walter, that I got through Ken, a while back. A real nice tool.
jack
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(09-13-2016, 06:38 PM)the penguin Wrote: Ed,

That's a nice looking cutter, is that a Walter??

I have a Walter, that I got through Ken, a while back. A real nice tool.

Yup, and I got mine from Ken also. Big Grin

Ed
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Nice to see you making some chips Ed!

Darren is spot-on. The finish looks like it does because at that extremely light chip load per tooth you get built-up edge on the insert. The material builds up, shears off and redeposits on the workpiece surface. In extreme conditions it can build up and eventually shear off the whole edge of the insert!

Cold rolled 1018 steel is very prone to getting that finish. If you take a deeper cut (try to get deeper than the 1/32" corner radius of the insert when possible) and give it around 0.004" to 0.007" feed per tooth. Of course that's hard to nail down on a manual machine, but experience is what you get when you keep trying. For what I saw in the video, you were at about 1/2 to 1/4 the feed rate that cut should have been. Make the inserts work a little, they'll last longer.

BTW, you may not have a problem with spindle alignment at all. Keep in mind that it shouldn't necessarily look like a perfect cross-hatch pattern when using carbide insert tooling. Put a straightedge across the short dimension of the surface and check for light in the middle. Or, plop it on a surface plate and check with a dial test indicator. You shouldn't see any dip across the middle.
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