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(11-01-2016, 06:29 AM)Mayhem Wrote: It is a little more complicated than that, as it has a horizontal slot as well as the vertical one, so the two arms are (mostly) independent of the base. I was hoping that my drawing made this clear but I have included another photo below:
still not a complicated part to make if made in the right steps, heck it could be made as two parts welded together pretty easy
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I agree Dave - I think it will be fairly easy to make. I just wanted to clarify that the base didn't flex, only the two arms.
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(11-01-2016, 06:35 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Did you move all the mill tooling with the mill?
Not a lot. The partners who are buying it get the mill, spare drawbar, set of collets, one Jacobs drill chuck, the Kurt D675 vise and one set of import clamps/T-nuts/studs. I've offered my Walter cutters, Walter dividing head and other stuff at additional cost, one did say he wants the dividing head.
On your clamp, I did notice the DEEP slot straightaway. That's going to be a challenge. I think material choice will be paramount to preventing a similar failure. What are you going to use? Steels that don't have good numbers for elasticity are going to be a problem. High tensile strength isn't the key, it's the modulus of elasticity that will survive the tension.
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I have no idea on what material to use. At almost 3" diameter, I'll have to go and buy an off-cut from somewhere. The only material I have on hand in that size is 6061 and a large length of ø4" 1018.
I had thought of redesigning it so that the two arms pivoted on screws, with a spring between the ends to prevent drag. This would eliminate the need to find the right characteristics and would make it easier to machine. The base and arms could be machined separately then and assembled in place.
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What's the depth of the slot? A calculation of the depth of the slot x 2, added to the O.D. of whatever arbor you may have will tell you what diameter saw to find. You could also consider using a cold saw or wide kerf bandsaw to pre-cut the slot and machine around it.
The 1018 steel should be fine. It's got good modulus of elasticity.
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Not exactly today, but I've been gnawing away at the casting I made for the gear banjo on my universal dividing head.
I still need to make the stub arbors for the idler gears, then make a start on producing the full set of change gears. The ones shown on the machine are from a set of mystery change gears I picked up, only a couple of them have appropriate tooth numbers for the dividing head and they all have splined centres, I have bored and keyed the centre of three of them whose number is amongst the ones I need. They are 14dp which seem about the right size for the job, I'm on the lookout for a cheap set of 14dp involute cutters.
A spinoff project was this slitting saw arbor so I could cut the clamp mount for the banjo, didn't want to take the vertical head off the mill. It makes use of a 30NT / 1" bore toolholder that came with a bunch of other stuff, plus a couple of the horizontal mill arbor spacers.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.
Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.
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(11-02-2016, 06:35 PM)PixMan Wrote: What's the depth of the slot? A calculation of the depth of the slot x 2, added to the O.D. of whatever arbor you may have will tell you what diameter saw to find.
Darren if you need a slitting saw for the job let me know, I got a mound of them amongst the horizontal mill cutters I bought. Come to think of it, I could finish the part for you on the RT if you didn't mind it looking like a kindergarten project.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.
Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.
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(11-06-2016, 02:47 AM)Pete O Wrote: (11-02-2016, 06:35 PM)PixMan Wrote: What's the depth of the slot? A calculation of the depth of the slot x 2, added to the O.D. of whatever arbor you may have will tell you what diameter saw to find.
Darren if you need a slitting saw for the job let me know, I got a mound of them amongst the horizontal mill cutters I bought. Come to think of it, I could finish the part for you on the RT if you didn't mind it looking like a kindergarten project.
Thanks for the offer Pete. I am going to make the part a little thicker and then counterbore the section to the bottom of the 'arms'. The slitting saws that I have are about 1-2mm on the short side, so a counterbore will allow me to cut all the way through.
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I actually did a few small projects this weekend but forgot to take pictures 
First was a couple of packers for a friend with AXA tool holders and small diameter boring bars. I simply milled some 6061 aluminium that I had to position the bars so that the dog point set screws tightened over the centre of the bar.
I also made up a 303 British snap cap for a friend, as they are about $25 to buy here. I had seen the picture below and made one using some thin scrap brass that I had on hand. The end doesn't protrude through the projectile (only in about half way) but it works and he is happy with it.
(taken from http://cartridgecollectors.org/cartridge...eld-Dotter)
Not the best photos but you can see the tip of the projectile has been cut off by the through hole. The firing pin strikes are evident in the brass even though the pressure required to push the plunger in is very light.
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Evening Chaps , 
I managed to get four of those wall cabinets up over the weekend .
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Rob 
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![[Image: P1140293_zpsriszxlzq.jpg]](http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/RobWilson100/media/P1140293_zpsriszxlzq.jpg.html)
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