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Ah! Stringy! That's precisely why I recommend a thin wedge (no spreader wings) and a full stroke.
Steve
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(01-22-2015, 06:58 AM)stevec Wrote: Ah! Stringy! That's precisely why I recommend a thin wedge (no spreader wings) and a full stroke.
Steve
I think most will agree with you there Steve. (Well I do
).
So at the end of the day it seems "horses for courses", and it is doubtful one wedge (wedge shape) will do for all purposes.
I also know it takes more force for a thick wedge than a thin wedge to a given depth assuming everything else is the same.
So why are these small (under 10 ton) commercial log splitters using a wide wedge?. Why does my 6ton log splitter use a wide wedge, they have gone to a lot of trouble to do it? - They must have a reason.
Could it be nothing to do with splitting the wood but more on welding the wedge over a bigger area thereby minimizing the chances of a catastrophic failure ?
Any thoughts
DaveH
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I understand what you are saying BF but on the larger log splitters (commercial more than 15 tons) it seems very rare to see these wider wedges even though they start talking about quick recycle times.
DaveH
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Back to the beginning of fixing the wedge to the I beam.
Cut a slot in the top of the I beam and remove the web down to the lower flange and weld the wedge in.
Even my poor welding should be good enough to hold it.
Something like this. I'll also weld in a backplate. - Now where's the angle grinder?
DaveH
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Like the work bench Dave
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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This is the wedge
255 (10") long
100 (4") wide
25 (1") thick
The wedge 'pointy bit' is 125 (5") long and 40deg inc. No idea what the angle should be so I took a stab in the dark
DaveH
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The following 2 users Like f350ca's post:
stevec (01-27-2015), EdK (01-27-2015)
Think they have to be 40.25 deg to work at all.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg