Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly
Darren, I believe it's Manuel not Manual and I get the Fawlty Towers connection but what's with Torquay?

I admire your dedication to a complete restoration and I'm becoming impatient to see the Kondia start repaying the TLC you've given it.

Smiley-eatdrink004
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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(11-17-2014, 04:52 PM)stevec Wrote: Darren, I believe it's Manuel not Manual and I get the Fawlty Towers connection but what's with Torquay?

I admire your dedication to a complete restoration and I'm becoming impatient to see the Kondia start repaying the TLC you've given it.

Smiley-eatdrink004

Thanks for picking up the spelling mistake Steve - I'm going to blame predictive text on that one.  Torquay is the UK town in which Fawlty Towers is set.  Here is one of my favourite scenes from the series, which confirms I haven't just made this up:



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A good friend of mine just moved to Torquay after retiring from a lifetime of work here in the US. He was born in England and has family there but had emigrated here when he was 2 or 3 years old. Not even a hint of a British accent here, but a very heavy American accent there. Happy as a clam, he reports, excepting all the traffic cameras. He rides motorbikes like me (British ones) and has gotten into a bit of trouble over in his new riding area of Torquay.

So...any further progress on the rebuild, Darren? ;)
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No more progress to report Ken. I only get a few hours on a Saturday to play with the mill.
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OK - I have some progress but not nearly as much as I would have liked.  I got the knee back on and installed the gib and one of the locks (the front operated cam lock).  However, the replacement bearings I purchased are not the correct ones, despite having the same number on the box.  I'm hoping the place I purchased them from are open Mon/Tue.  Here you can see the knee in position with a couple of chocks just in case the jack cylinder springs a leak. The height is right to allow me to install the screw/nut and the pedestal.

   
   
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It's nice to see some movement on that machine Darren, because I know it's a busy time of year for all of us but especially those in the southern hemisphere who are enjoying the warm weather.

So what's the problem with the bearings? Did they put the wrong number bearing in the right box or did your parts book give the (apparently) wrong bearing number?

What's the status of the head itself as of now? Are you needing any more parts? I'm off work until after the first of the year, so could have a little time.
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Thanks Ken,

The replacement bearings are not as thick as the original ones, despite the same number on the box. However, I think it is my fault, as I went off the manual, which only shows the first four numbers. I'll take the old ones in with me when I go.

At present I think the head is just about ready to bolt back on but I want to wait until the saddle and the table are back on first. There are a few minor jobs that I still need to do but nothing major comes to mind.

Yes - busy time of year and there have been several other things that have cropped up that have stolen time from me. Also, I needed to wait until a Saturday when my mate could come up and give me a hand. Whilst I could have put the knee back on myself, having an extra set of hands made it a lot easier.
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I now have the correct bearings. The print calls for a 6306 2RS bearing for the elevation screw and two 6204 2RS bearings for the knee gear shaft. When at the bearing shop, I discovered that the naming convention had changed since the drawing was done. Dual race bearings are designated 5, not 6. So I now have a 5306 R2 bearing and two 5204 R2 bearings Big Grin
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Think maybe your print was wrong Darren. As far as I know a 6200 series bearing has always been a single row one, pretty sure 6300 series are too.
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Greg
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Thanks Greg, I didn't think to ask if they may have been correct in the late 60's or not.

I have actually just come back from the supplier, as the 5306 is thicker than the one that came out of it. The bearing carrier is 4mm below the top of the bearing. I didn't bring the gear that goes on next with me to see if there will be any issues or not. The only thing I can think of is that there will not be much thread sticking out for the nut. If that is the case, I will recess the top of the gear to suit.

It turns out that the bearing that came out of it was a single race radial bearing and certainly not suited to the application. The shop can get me a dual race bearing of the same thickness but he has advised me to try and make the 5306 work first, as it is a dual race angular contact bearing, where the other one will be a dual race radial bearing.
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