Fire Wood Processor
Greg, I'm not sure it was Charlie that prettied up your lathes, I suspect Julie! Rotfl

Steve

Smiley-eatdrink004
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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Steve, it's Julia Bash  Rotfl
Smiley-eatdrink004 
DaveH
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Actually was Charlie that did the cleaning, had Julia running the mill when the wedge for the splitter was made though.
Finished up the splitter today, made the slides for the pusher block and proper pins for the cylinder.
Charlie needed a new axle for one of his bikes, the threads went for sh on the stock one, expect it was made from recycled fridges or something.
Did the threading on the Hardinge at 600 rpm, notice the end of the threads, you don't make an undercut, the depth stop kicks out within a couple of thou so you end up with a circle at the end of each pass.
Made it out of the tail of a torsional coil spring. Saved the ends I cut off some torsion springs I used on a large set of ramps I built for a chap, they were used to load a D6 cat on the back of a Mack truck. I've made mandrels out of them for pressing in valve guides and a few other things, good steel, any idea what steel springs are made of?

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Greg
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Common springs are usually 1095. If the MFG cares about durability, they'll use 5160, it's a fatigue resistant spring steel.

There are a couple of other alloys, but those are the common ones.

1095 is also popular with knifemakers.
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Started on the chain saw section today.
Roughed out the shaft for the drive, on the Summit. Nice to have the horsepower to remove material.
Will make up a lathe dog and bring it to size on the Hardinge.
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Greg
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That's the one shortcoming of the Hardinge. That 1 HP just doesn't go very far when roughing out a part.

Tom
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No, it doesn't keep up to the 10 hp on the Summit. Had to make up a set of soft jaws with a back stop, the part was skidding into the 3 jaw.
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Greg
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Started making the bearing that the chainsaw bar will pivot on.
Had a piece of 5 x 3 1/2 DOM that was too long for what I needed but too short to hold in the bandsaw vice. Clamped a section of 5 inch angle in the vice then clamped the DOM to it.
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Precarious but it worked.
That was bored out slightly and chamfered heavily to fit over a piece of 3 inch shed 80 pipe to which it was welded. Bored the pipe to take the bushings then pressed them in. Then in the 3 jaw bored the bushings to final ID and profiled the boss that the bar adaptor will mount to in one setup so everything is lined up.
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Now it needs drilled and treaded to mount the bar adaptor.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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Nicely done Greg Thumbsup 
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DaveH
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This is the current design for the chainsaw drive and pivot. The middle arbour will be stationary, the centre shaft will carry the chain sprocket and the outer arbour will be where the bar mounts and pivots from.
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The previous parts were the outer section and the shaft.

The lathe work is complete now to drill some holes for the bar adaptor and sprocket mount.

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The centre section was 2 3/4 x 2 inch bore DOM, spun it between the 3 jaw main chuck and rotating tailstock chuck to surface it. 

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Then into the four jaw to bore it for the bearings.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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