what's the best way to ream out 1 1/16 holes to 1 1/4
#11
(06-29-2014, 02:43 PM)Dr Stan Wrote:
(06-29-2014, 01:27 PM)tackit Wrote:
(06-29-2014, 11:41 AM)Dr Stan Wrote: What is the reason for enlarging the holes? If it is simply to have stronger pins would making some from a higher tensile strength steel achieve the same result?

Dr Stan I have given that thought but I'm not able to determine what type of steel would do the job... I'm going by what other presses use. I made a mistake when I cut the holes on the press, unfortunately one of the presses I was copying used smaller 1" pins not larger ones. Most presses on websites when I built the press didn't give pin sizes so I used what I thought was the right size. It works the way it is but it's not right and it bothers me.

I misspoke in my first post as I should have said shear strength rather than tensile strength. I spent some time researching and found most hitch pins (which are designed to resist shearing) are made from SAE 1039 or 4140 and hardened to Rc 40 give or take. Here's a site with some good examples: http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/pins/hitch.htm

Keep in mind the shear strength is based on the physical properties of the material and the area of the cross section placed in shear.

Since most of us (at least I do not) have easy & free access to a good heat treating facility things like a pin placed in heavy stress really ought to be purchased, not turned out on the trusty lathe.

So even though you're increasing the cross section I'd still seriously consider buying pins that have been properly hardened and tempered. There are several sources such as McMaster, Grainger, etc and they certainly are proud of their hitch pins. So I'd check with the local Ag/Construction equipment dealer and a good automotive parts house for their prices.

BTW, nice press. Smiley-signs107

Thank you so much for the valuable information Dr Stan. I certainly will check out almabolt and the Ag/Construction equipment dealers around here as you suggested.

You saved me time as I haven't thought about what steel to use for the pins, instead I have been spending time on determining what's going to be the best way to enlarge the holes without destroying the accuracy I was able to get rotobroaching them. I spent a lot of time lining up the holes and hope I can keep the accuracy I achieved. The holes now are 1 1/16, the same OD as 3/4 pipe. Thanks for your nice press comment too.
tackit, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since May 2014.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#12
Its literally been years since I used this type of drill bit, but it just may do the trick for you. Check out this page in the Travers Tool catalog:

http://www.traverscatalogs.com/lg_displa...aster_2014

You should be able to add an appropriate sized pilot to the holder or maybe even buy one. See:

http://www.traverscatalogs.com/lg_displa...aster_2014

I remember you saying you have a mag drill, so this set up should keep you in alignment and enlarge the holes as desired.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#13
If accuracy and finish are important I'd steer away from the bridge reamer or even the expensive jobs Dr Stan suggested, used in a hand held drill, no matter how powerful it is (I've hurt myself with one of those monsters).
Any reason you can't put the plates in the mill and bore them?
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#14
Does it really need 1-1/4" pins, or would commercial 1" pins be suitable and a simpler solution?
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#15
(07-02-2014, 07:25 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Does it really need 1-1/4" pins, or would commercial 1" pins be suitable and a simpler solution?

As my replies indicate we're on the same page and it sure would be a lot less work.

BTW, is the bar Minski's (spelling?) still in business? It was in between Perth & Freemantle next to a women's college when the USS Coral Sea made a port call in 1975. Let's just say it has a special place in my memories. Smile
Reply
Thanks given by:
#16
Dr Stan I don't see an E series auxiliary pilot offered that will fit the existing 1 1/16 holes, could one be ordered or turned down? The E series 3/4 straight shank pilot holder will fit my mag drill.

I don't know for sure what size pins to use, press manufacturers websites don't offer their pin sizes and I don't know anyone that has a 50 ton press. Thanks guys for the help .


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
tackit, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since May 2014.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#17
Minsky's is still there Stan. I'll have to call in and have a pint for you.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#18
(07-04-2014, 06:27 PM)Mayhem Wrote: Minsky's is still there Stan. I'll have to call in and have a pint for you.

I'm going to have to put it on my bucket list. BTW, I was there for the celebration of the victory of the Battle of the Coral Sea. For those who do not know that was the attempt by Japan to invade northern Australia. It sure didn't hurt to be an American sailor off the USS Coral Sea. Smiley-eatdrink004

On edit: wearing my Cracker Jack dress blues :)
Reply
Thanks given by:
#19
(07-04-2014, 02:50 PM)tackit Wrote: Dr Stan I don't see an E series auxiliary pilot offered that will fit the existing 1 1/16 holes, could one be ordered or turned down? The E series 3/4 straight shank pilot holder will fit my mag drill.

I don't know for sure what size pins to use, press manufacturers websites don't offer their pin sizes and I don't know anyone that has a 50 ton press. Thanks guys for the help .

Probably need to make your own pilot.

I also searched for 50 ton hydraulic press manuals and found this one: http://www.northerntool.com/images/downl...145550.pdf

It indicates the pins are 1 1/4" in diameter. Therefore I believe you're on the right track for pin size.
Reply
Thanks given by:




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)