Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly
#81
Darren,

Five threads per inch sounds right for the XY screws, as does the 20 pitch screw on the quill. I'll check mine when I get home tonight, but the 200 divisions on the dials is pretty much a give away.

Tom
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#82
(01-17-2014, 07:40 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Thanks Steve. Nuts and bolts are all metric, as are the keys, circlips etc.
Wow! That sounds like a bit of a "twastard" , to quote another member here.
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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#83
It's not usual at all for Asian and European machine builders to use "inch" feed screws in machines for the North American (their largest) market. My Taiwanese Victor lathe is a good example. The lead screw is 4 TPI, the cross-slide is 5 TPI and gearing in the QCGB is oriented to combinations of inch thread pitches. All the other hardware on the machine is metric.
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#84
(01-18-2014, 08:32 AM)stevec Wrote:
(01-17-2014, 07:40 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Thanks Steve. Nuts and bolts are all metric, as are the keys, circlips etc.
Wow! That sounds like a bit of a "twastard" , to quote another member here.

Could be worse. The quill screw on my lathe tail stock was originally a metric diameter with an imperial thread pitch. Bleh
Willie
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#85
(01-18-2014, 08:57 AM)PixMan Wrote: It's not usual at all for Asian and European machine builders to use "inch" feed screws in machines for the North American (their largest) market...

That was my understanding. Fortunately I can work in inches and millimetres.

I've managed to find a "new" yoke and nuts (x and y axis) for $150 on eBay. Came out of a FV-1 that was converted to CNC. For the cost of the knee elevation nut, I think I can send the nut and screw that I have to Ken and back and still be in front...
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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#86
What can I do with the screw and nut for you?
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#87
(01-18-2014, 09:59 PM)PixMan Wrote: What can I do with the screw and nut for you?

I was hoping the offer to make me one was still on the table.

(12-30-2013, 08:20 PM)PixMan Wrote: I don't think I'd have any problem making a new one of those Darren. Though it probably wouldn't look exactly the same, it would work fine. Can you make a drawing of it and send it to me? Same for the elevation nut, though that one would probably be much easier. My only worry about that one would be fitting to the existing screw. I would need very good measurements of the threads, or perhaps it would be easy enough to just make BOTH parts as new.
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#88
I'd forgotten abut that, sorry.

Of course the offer is still valid. I'm always anxious to do projects for other people for just the cost of any materials I have to buy. As it is, Neil had gifted me a piece of about 3" diameter cast bronze that should work fine for your needs.
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#89
Thanks Ken - I'm weighing up whether to buy the last on that Kondia has in stock. I think the cost verses shipping back and forth to the US may equate to the same. I'll let you know when I get my crap together!
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#90
It has been a while since I have done any work on the head, as I have been OS and interstate for work. One thing I forgot to strip down was the quill (partly because it was wrapped up in a rag for protection and was effectively hidden from sight!).

I had been in contact with a guy from QLD who had many years of servicing these machines and he believes he has some bearings (amongst other parts) in his collection. He is travelling at the moment, so I will have to wait. No big deal, as I have a ton of other things to do.

First thing was to make a wrench to remove the nut. Whilst it took about 15 minutes to make, it is a much better option than the PO chose - as is evidenced by the damage to the nut. Please don't attack nuts with punches or chisels (unless it is your last resort).
   

All the bits once they were freed from the quill.
   

Cleaned up and ready for new bearings.
   

A close up of the damage done to the nut Bash
   

I also filed the casting on the worm gear cradle, as It didn't mate with the engage/disengage crank sleeve. It took about three attempts to get it to move smoothly. This is one area where things must have changed over the years, as some of the components don't fit. The pin the engages the cam to move the worm gear cradle in/out didn't fit the shaft of the crank and had to be turned down. The crank handle hole is too small for the shaft and will need resizing. All other components have fitted together nicely thus far but I won't know for sure, as I cannot actually fit them into the head until the quill goes back in.

The worm cradle in position.
   

   
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