(12-31-2021, 09:40 PM)arvidj Wrote: [ -> ]I see that you are using different colors for your containers. I am assuming that is so you know what is inside without having to open them. I know I'd lose track of what I had stored in them about 10 minutes after I put the container in the drawer.
No good reason other than to not use up all of the spool of one color. I'm probably going to label the boxes. Some day I'll learn how to incorporate text in the 3D models so labeling won't be necessary.
Ed
Have a couple of empty 105mm Howitzer cases here and thought that I would draw up and print a HE and a HEAT-T round for them:
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attachment=17506][
attachment=17507]
Not sure why the cone on the HEAT-T round appears to be lumpy - I can assure you that it is nice and smooth.
These are printed in several sections and then screwed together. These are hollow (essentially the same thickness as the real shells) but I do also include some voids in the bases, to reduce the amount of filament used.
Just how big of a printer do you have? They do look good though.
I've some 105 / 155 ordinance (decommissioned) in my collection as well. Certainly not small in stature nor light weight.
I think your 'lumpyness' might be caused by the same problem I always have. Camera shake.
Well you guys need to remember, it takes a very special camera to get good pics for here. Haven't seen them in a while.
In my case I don't think it is the camera so much as pilot error.
I actually do own a tripod although I never use it for the camera because it is stored away with my chronograph.
I think it was Rob Wilson that had the "special" camera, wasn't it?
(01-13-2022, 11:39 AM)Highpower Wrote: [ -> ] Just how big of a printer do you have? They do look good though.
I've some 105 / 155 ordinance (decommissioned) in my collection as well. Certainly not small in stature nor light weight.
I think your 'lumpyness' might be caused by the same problem I always have. Camera shake.
I have a CR-10 so the work envelope is pretty big. However, I design these to screw together and print each part individually. Here is the drawing for the HE shell and you can see the four individual pieces.
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attachment=17508]
I always make the male thread shorter than the female thread, so that the pieces will screw together without any gaps.
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attachment=17509]
Here is the base of the HEAT-T showing the included voids, which reduces the amount of filament used. I started including this in my large models after I had printed the HE.
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attachment=17510]
I think the camera issue had to do with the light and the background, as the other picture came out just fine.
Your printer is a whole lot more accurate dimensionally than mine. I printed a part today that had a hole diameter of .150 but it printed it at .130.
Ed
It wasn't like that out of the box. There has been a whole lot of mods and adjustments, as well as these moments
