MetalworkingFun Forum

(06-20-2016, 09:42 PM)Highpower Wrote: [ -> ]

Do they use a different pitch on the scrolls or something? I'm thinking you'd get more juice from an orange if there were 4 hands squeezing it than 2 hands.  

Don't know about the scroll pitch, but they usually distribute the clamping forces more evenly.  The last one I used before I purchased my Logan was at Superior Hone in the late '70's when it was owned by MWA.  We made custom honing tools and the 6 jaw usually eliminated having to dial in work when flipping it end to end.  Had a couple that needed a serious overhaul that you still needed to adjust each time.

One reason a 6 jaw seems to hold better is that there is more surface contact with 6 jaws than 3. 3 jaw chuck jaws are usually a bit wider than a 6 but they don't have as much metal contacting the work piece as the 3. I will say though that all things being equal a 3 jaw chuck seems to have a little more rigidity than the 6 jaw scroll chuck I have. If the job calls for extra rigidity and holding power it's very hard to beat a beefy 4 jaw with some brass or copper shims between the jaw and workpiece.

(06-23-2016, 05:09 PM)Jim1611 Wrote: [ -> ]If the job calls for extra rigidity and holding power it's very hard to beat a beefy 4 jaw with some brass or copper shims between the jaw and workpiece.

Ed

I remember running 24 or so hex brass pieces in a 6 jaw marking one flat and using jaw #1 as a reference.  Was able to run the first op on all then re-chuck them with very close repeat-ability.

(06-18-2016, 11:41 AM)TomG Wrote: [ -> ]Six jaw chucks are wonderful. They chuck work nearly as concentric as collets, except they are infinitely adjustable. I have a Buck six jaw on my lathe and about the only time I'll resort to collets is if I'm doing a large number of parts.

Tom

Agreed. And Tom, just to be clear, you are the one who did it for me with the 6-jaw chuck. Watching your videos and talking to a co-worker who used to do a lot of machining got me wanting a 6-jaw. I never bought one when I had my old lathe but when I purchased my new 13x40 lathe two years ago that was the first accessory I bought. I use mine a lot and only recently bought a 5C collet chuck because I had a small production run of parts and my Gator 6-jaw only grips down to about .200" range.

Mike.

I have been wanting to fabricate some actual argon backer boxes for quite a few years now.  I am tired of using aluminum foil wrapped around items with the purge hose stuck in through a poked hole.  I don't think much about it until I need them and then I go on a rant that I never have enough time to get things done that I want to, always things I have to.  Well, that is changing.

Back when I was fabricating a lot of ATV sand drag chassis I would like to back purge the tabs and brackets onto the 4130 chromoly chassis because they would get that similar sugary look like stainless steel does and if you wanted to weld the back side as well you were welding through it.  I would merely wrap some aluminum foil around the back side of the bracket or tab and poke a small hole in it to place my purge hose.  Well I am going to get out of the dark ages and fabricate some nice backer boxes.

Here is what I started with.  Some square tubing, perforated stainless steel sheet, copper tubing/fittings and some silicon 1/4" hose.


Square tubing setup in mill vise to cut back areas where the perforated stainless steel will go as well as a hole for the copper tubing to protrude through.






Getting close to be completed.  I was able to get the copper sweat together and the holes drilled.  I also soldered the copper to the metal housing and merely pinched the ends closed to trap the argon.  I made three different size of backer boxes and one 2"x3.5" box to lie small parts on for welding.  Each will have a small 1/4" hose barb for the silicon hose to connect.


This one has the holes coming out each side and will have steel wool placed inside to act as a diffuser to evenly disperse the argon.


This one is actually a corner style with the perforated stainless steel bent at 90-degrees to form the corner.


Then lastly two different sizes of a plain backer box.  One measures 2" long and the other 6" in length.


Those should give me a nice variety of sizes/configurations for most everything I weld and will be readily available for quick welding jobs.  I will post up some final pictures when I get them completed.

Mike.

Completed my argon purge/backer boxes.

Bottom of the 2"x3" box welded.




Top side with the perforated stainless steel welded on and filled with strands of steel wool to act as a diffuser.


The larger of the backer boxes, this one is made from 1" square tubing and measures 6 inches in length.


This is corner one that measures about 5" in length.


Shortest measuring 2 inches and longest measuring 6 inches.


All four completed and ready to be put into use.


Those should last me a long time and were quite simple to fabricate.  I should have built them many years ago.

Mike.

Those must use a LOT of argon! I'm sure they are run at very low volume, but it's a lot of area.

BTW, sorry about the six jaw expenditure. :)

Tom

They aren't too awfully bad. I have a separate regulator for the purge line.

It also may be deceiving because of the size holes of the perforated stainless steel. The 1/4" copper tubing inside each one only as some .040" holes drilled in it.

Mike.

Don't be sorry about the 6-jaw chuck, I love it and am glad I bought it.

Besides, isn't that what these forums and youtube videos are for, to help everyone spend their money?

Mike.