MetalworkingFun Forum

Very nice Greg.

That small morticer that I spy behind your disk sander / linisher looks identical to my Sedgwick one - is it a Sedgwick?

Beautiful cabinetry work f350ca. Nice machine work on the watch dallen.

(07-01-2014, 02:53 AM)awemawson Wrote: [ -> ]Very nice Greg.

That small morticer that I spy behind your disk sander / linisher looks identical to my Sedgwick one - is it a Sedgwick?

It may be a copy, there's no name on it. I expect Taiwanese, bought it 10 or 12 years ago.

With my lathe open, I took the opportunity to help out a commercial shop owner. He'd bought these two 1" diameter two-flute shoulder mills, but they aren't available in the 3/4" shank size he needs to use in the live tool collet chucks on his CNC lathe. I offered to turn down the shanks for him because he's very busy and the only machinists he has capable of such a job are busy running jobs.

I mounted my 12" independent 4-jaw chuck and gripped the working (insert pocket) end using copper shims. It took over 45 minutes of work to get the ground, somewhat hard shanks to run true from end to end. I pray it didn't move while turning through the Weldon flats with a TPG322 grade VC610 Valenite cermet insert. One done, I'll put the inserts in it and check it for runout in my mill with an R8 collet and later in my lathe using a C5. If good (less than .0005" runout), I'll do the second one. Given that they cost over $340 each new and can't be returned once modified, it's a one shot deal!

Here's one you guys can chuckle about. Probably relates to old age, something Steve can relate to.
Some one dropped by with a Honda powered water pump the other day, that hadn't been drained last winter so the aluminum housing cracked. Should be able to weld it up but some of these castings are crap i told them. Tore the front housing off and clean it up, set it up on the bench and yah it welds horrible, the rod won't flow (tried 3 different types of rod) just sort of melts in with a horrible skin. Was a bit surprised, but built it up enough that i could cut it down smooth with a flap wheel and make it look almost passible. They asked how much i told them but don't pay me till you try it and see if it leaks.
A couple of days latter they're back, i figure shi*. Turns out that held but it was also leaking from the back, and they broke the cast iron impeller trying to take it apart for me. So I get the impeller off and the housing behind and fined another crack, welds just as horrible. Braze the impeller back together and all is well.
Finished up I go back to the sink to wash up and just happened to notice as Im passing the Tig its still set on DC from the last Stainless weld Id made. Miller injects a little AC on top of the DC so you don't have to scratch start it so the arc would start and sounds smooth but sure doesn't clean.

Not much to look at but I got the blank ready for milling the features on this part.

Ed

[attachment=8840]

Really good Ed, ............... What is it

DaveH

(07-06-2014, 06:14 PM)DaveH Wrote: [ -> ]Really good Ed, ............... What is it

DaveH

Dave,

It's part of a bracket for the cross slide scale for my lathe DRO. The way I had originally mounted the scale blocked access to the cross slide lock. This new bracket hopefully fixes that problem.

Ed

Got time in the shop this afternoon. I quickly finished turning down the shank on the second of the two carbide insert end mills, then set to work on two simple aluminum parts for Neil's RZ350 "resto-mod" motorcycle. These are among the very last of the parts needed to get the bike out on the road, two "extensions" to move the lower fairing out and way from the exhaust system. The expansion chambers he's using aren't quite stock, so some shifting of a mounting point is required.

He'll bolt these onto the existing points on the lower frame rails, then contour the tops of them to a curved shape with his belt grinder, locate a hole that will match up with one in the fairing, and tap it M6x1. These parts started as 1/2" thick x 3/4" wide 6061, a 5" long bar of it. I used the 2-axis CNC and a 7/16" two-flute solid carbide mill to run two parts on the top, then drill, counterbore and chamfer the hole. Flip the bar over in the vise, mill 1/8" off and two pieces done just needing a little Scotchbrite wheel deburring work.

Ken,

I do appreciate your explanations of what you use and how you do it. I sure learn a lot more from your posts that way.

Thanks,
Ed