Wow Mike, I was wondering where you'd got to, you've made up for lost time with that little lot
I had elongated holes in the receiver hitch of a Range Rover I owned, the previous owner had been towing a big horse float. I drilled it out to take a 3/4" tractor pin. Probably less fun than all that tig welding.
(06-24-2016, 04:46 PM)TomG Wrote: [ -> ]Nice job Mike. I used to gas weld a lot of 4130 tube structures that had bushings in them, but TIG makes it SO much prettier.
Tom
Thanks Tom, I really appreciate that. I love TIG welding but I just need more practice.
Mike.
(06-24-2016, 08:04 PM)Pete O Wrote: [ -> ]Wow Mike, I was wondering where you'd got to, you've made up for lost time with that little lot
I had elongated holes in the receiver hitch of a Range Rover I owned, the previous owner had been towing a big horse float. I drilled it out to take a 3/4" tractor pin. Probably less fun than all that tig welding.
Thanks, I appreciate the comments.
Mike.
Got the cart ready to install the tool chest. I'm going to see if I can lift it on with the cherry picker tomorrow.
Ed
[
attachment=13395]
I was able to get a good start on my mounding adapter for the 3-jaw chuck for my new to me weld positioner last night.
Started by machining some T-nuts for mounting the chuck to the weld positioner's turn table. The turn table has four elongated slots spaced 90-degrees apart. I figured I may as well machine some mounting nuts so I could use them for mounting other items if not using the 3-jaw chuck.
Started with a couple pieces of .5" plate by 2" wide.
![[Image: 112eteu.jpg]](http://i63.tinypic.com/112eteu.jpg)
I snuck up on the dimensions by plunging along the sides to within .005" width and .020" depth.
![[Image: vql92a.jpg]](http://i64.tinypic.com/vql92a.jpg)
I then dropped the end mill the final .020" depth and moved in the .005" to my final dimension for a clean up cut, then drilled and tapped some 5/16"-18 holes and removed from the mill vise for deburring.
![[Image: o8ewid.jpg]](http://i63.tinypic.com/o8ewid.jpg)
Next up was to cut some .188" plate to match the size of the turn table. I cut some plate out roughly on the vertical bandsaw before chucking it up in the lathe to turn it to exact size. It needed a purge hole in the center anyways so that was a good place to grab it in the chuck.
![[Image: ab6ude.jpg]](http://i66.tinypic.com/ab6ude.jpg)
Parts completed so far.
![[Image: flzgyf.jpg]](http://i64.tinypic.com/flzgyf.jpg)
Tonight I will drill the mounting holes to mount the plate to the chuck/adapter and then drill the four holes in the plate to attach to the turn table. I will then weld the chuck adapter to the plate and call it done.
Mike.
Mike,
What model and size is that lathe?
Greg
(06-29-2016, 09:04 PM)pepi Wrote: [ -> ]Mike,
What model and size is that lathe?
Greg
I believe it's a PM1340 if I'm not mistaken.
Ed
Think that looks like it a bit more than my needs, shopping for a lathe. Want to keep the input power at line 110 AC.
Greg
(06-29-2016, 09:04 PM)pepi Wrote: [ -> ]Mike,
What model and size is that lathe?
Greg
It is a 13x40 size lathe. Precision Mathews PM1340GT to be exact.
Ti is a great Taiwanese made lathe.
If you are looking to purchase a lathe I highly recommend giving Matt a call at Quality Machine Tools, he is great to deal with.
Can I ask why you want to stay with 110 VAC power? I think you are really giving up some options by not wanting to go to at least 220 volt power. Personally in a lathe I would even highly recommend going 3-phase to be honest. The 120-degree overlap of the phases really smoothes out the lathe and is especially nice for low speed threading.
Mike.