(01-18-2013, 09:07 AM)sasquatch Wrote: [ -> ]Went over to son's and gave him a hand to get the front Differential out of a 2005 Avalanche he is working on for a customer.
Tricky thing to just twist it the right way to get it to clear to drop it out.
(Low on diff oil, needs a complete bearing-seals replacement.)
Trickier thing is to get out of the way as it "drop"s out!
Aluminum case Steve, so not real heavy, but a real trick to twist it a bit each way to get it to come out without dismantling the steering etc.
Today i dismantled a nice Dake arbour press i bought some time ago, cleaned, lubed , repainted, and buffed up the shiney parts, reassemble tommorrow probably.
Been helping a friend change engines in his 81 Dodge 3/4 ton this week. Got the replacement in without much trouble, then fix a couple of leaks but found the head gasket leaking. The rad was pressuring up, so we tried a stop leak compound in it, seems to be working. Low budget fix, must be close to 30 years since I changed an engine in a vehicle.
Then built a driveshaft for a pickup today.
Tomorrow its a shaft for the blade on a log skidder.
(01-18-2013, 08:54 PM)f350ca Wrote: [ -> ]Tomorrow its a shaft for the blade on a log skidder.
Well I'm certainly looking forward to that.
Ed
Things have kept me out of the shop for six months and I needed to get back into it, so I accepted a job - it's a counterweight for a once-famous hotel street clock.
The dog is there to laugh at me for busting (finally) the cheapo brazed carbide face mill on this and having to finish it with an end mill on a mill/drill. The pain... Still looking at a couple more hours of it. Notice the lack of power feeds.
Next project will obviously be to make a new face mill.. I'm being "paid" in HSS, hopefully I can put something together with them. I'm open for suggestions - anyone here ever make a face mill for HSS bits?
edit: Btw, DOC here is .070", 3/4" 2-flute on a 5/8" path, 490 RPM, air cooled. Material is 1" steel plate.
Looking good Willie but where are the subtitles?
Nice mods Willie. I like the large hand wheel you have for the knee crank. It looks much more user friendly than those other styles with the single arm.
Ed
(01-20-2013, 10:09 AM)Mayhem Wrote: [ -> ]Looking good Willie but where are the subtitles?
You have to push the SAP button on your monitor...
(01-20-2013, 10:41 AM)EdK Wrote: [ -> ]Nice mods Willie. I like the large hand wheel you have for the knee crank. It looks much more user friendly than those other styles with the single arm.
Ed
The hand wheel will be for
fine adjustments after raising/lowering the knee with the power feed. I don't think I would want to crank it all the way up with the hand wheel alone.
The mechanical advantage with the long single arm crank makes it easier to raise the knee, but the one that came with the mill was ridiculously long. If the Y-axis crank handle was turned to my left (which is where it
always was when I needed to move the knee
), the swing on the Z crank handle overlapped it and they hit each other. Some great 'enginrearing' there, huh?
I though about putting another keyway in the opposite side of the Y crank handle several times to try and reduce the odds.
Between that and having a weak back and bad shoulders, I really wanted a power feed anyway. Spotting, drilling, chamfering, and tapping multiple holes on the mill wears me out with the constant up-down-up-down of moving the knee to keep the work close to the spindle.
The original hand crank (7 lug) wouldn't mate up with the new Bridgeport clutch hub (9 lug) anyway, so I figured I would just go with a handwheel.