MetalworkingFun Forum

dallen, I found that heating the part slightly helps obtain a more uniform surface finish. Hot enough to be uncomfortable to hold in a bare hand, but not hot enough to actually burn you. I used a toaster oven; obviously, your barrel won't fit in one. Maybe pour very hot water over it until it's heated up?

I also found that scrubbing the part with very fine (00 or 000) steel wool got the finish darker.

Steve,
Nicely made ...... although I have no idea what they are used for ?
 
DaveH

(02-14-2015, 06:00 PM)rleete Wrote: [ -> ]dallen, I found that heating the part slightly helps obtain a more uniform surface finish.  Hot enough to be uncomfortable to hold in a bare hand, but not hot enough to actually burn you.  I used a toaster oven; obviously, your barrel won't fit in one.  Maybe pour very hot water over it until it's heated up?

I also found that scrubbing the part with very fine (00 or 000) steel wool got the finish darker.

One thing I've learned since I been dabbling in the gun hobby is that there are about as many ways of doing something as there are people doing it.

And everything you said was taken into consideration when I blued the barrel. Heating the barrel before applying the chemicals only does one thing, it causes them to rust faster. The Barrel was so hot from boiling it in between carding it and then reapplying I used hooks to handle it with.

I used 4/0 steel wool which had been washed with brake cleaner. only way to get the finish darker is to blue it more, carding will make it shine more.

Color on the barrel wasn't exactly what I was shooting for but I like it, its more in line with what the rifle would of looked like in 1885, not sure at what point but guns used to be white, or bare metal finish.

Oh, yea I'm not done with it yet. Just got bored and needed a break so I worked on a new project that I been itching to start.

DA

(02-14-2015, 06:30 PM)DaveH Wrote: [ -> ]Steve,
Nicely made ...... although I have no idea what they are used for ?
 
DaveH

Retractable landing gear for a drone. The leg is carbon fiber tube that needed to be mounted to the retracting mechanism. The mechanism was made for 10mm rods, so to fit the 20mm tubes the pin needed to be offset so that it would be able to retract.

This is not a good video but it should help.

Now I understand  ............. I was thinking hexacopter (five) and you had made 3 pairs  
Very neat    

 
DaveH

Another of my 'no big deal' projects.

I was getting tired of picking up the little bits that fall on the floor when I cut something with the 4x6 band saw. Murphy insures they then bounce under the saw. That, along with having to vacuum all of the chips that were falling on the items on the shelf directly below the saw blade prompted me to implement something I had seen elsewhere on the web.

Obviously a sheet rock mud tray, a little weather stripping to fill the gap between the tray and the saw table, some wing nuts and more or less the problem is solved.

[attachment=10048]  

Very smart   nice job
 
DaveH

A friend came over with his 10" countershaft pulley from his southbend lath. The bore was worn quite badly causing lots of wobble. He turned a sleeve for the shaft and we bored the center and then trued up the od. Used the 3jaw and shimmed it to about 4 thou of center. A 10" pulley on my 10" atlas, there was about 1/16" clearance to the carriage.



There was a little bit of harmonics which caused the pattern on the larger diameter, but in the end everything worked fine.

Needed a quick project so I built a new chuck key, I powder coated it so I could find it 

Wow! that is one smart chuck key  
 
DaveH